Because Governor Wentworth of New Hampshire built his summer home nearby in 1768, tiny WOLFEBORO claims to be "the oldest summer resort in America." Sandwiched between lakes Winnipesaukee and Wentworth, it has little to show for that history, but it's a relaxing place to spend a few hours, along the short but bustling main street, next to the quay where the Mount Washington comes in.

The 1812 Wolfeboro Inn (tel 603/569-3016 or 1-800/451-2389, ; $75-160) stands in a dignified waterfront position at 90 N Main St, just a few yards from the town proper; its Wolfe's Tavern serves good-value meals, and a complimentary cruise on the Inn's own Winnipesaukee Belle is included in season. 123 North Main B&B , 123 N Main St (tel 603/569-9191 or 1-800/577-9506; $100-130/$130-160), is a relaxing place with friendly owners, close to both the town and lake. Wolfeboro Campground is on Haines Hill Road (tel 603/569-9881; $16-17 per site), open mid-May to mid-October. Garwoods (tel 603/569-7788), 6 N Main St, serves good-value food outdoors along the waterfront; Lydia's Café (tel 603/569-3991), at 33 N Main St, is an excellent, veggie-oriented place for breakfast, lunch or smoothies.

The eastern shore of Lake Winnipesaukee is considerably less developed than the area around Weirs Beach, and makes for much better walking. One fascinating stopoff, a few miles north of Wolfeboro on Hwy-109, is the Libby Museum (summer Tues-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun noon-4pm; $2), where the obsession of c.1900 dentist Henry Forest Libby with evolution is illustrated by various ineptly stuffed animals (one can only hope that he was a better dentist than he was a taxidermist) and the skeletons of bears, orangutans and humans. There's also a mastodon's tooth, a "Niddy Noddy" spinning device, and a fingernail supposedly pulled out by its Chinese owner to demonstrate his new Christian faith. The front steps command a superb view over the lake itself.